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From Omalos to Anopoli Plain (via E4 to Katsiveli, Svourichti, Mesa Soros, Rousiés, Trocharis, Thodori Korfí, Anopoli road)

CHANIA - OMALOS plain - KALERGHI refuge - PORIA saddle - PLAKOSELI plain - PIROU plain - KATSIVELI refuge - the summit of SVOURICHTI - the summit of MESA SOROS - ROUSIÉS saddle - under the summit of PÁCHNES - the summit of TROCHARIS - summits of THODORÍ KORFÍ - under CHORAFÁS KORFÍ - ANOPOLI road - AGANTHOPOI - the ravine of LAGO - ANOPOLI plain - AGIOS DIMITRIOS - ARADHÉNA BRIDGE - SELLOUDA - coastal E4 - AGIA ROUMELI - AGIOS PAVLOS beach - MARMARA - LOUTRO - GLIKA NERO beach - ILINGIAS gorge - SFAKIA - CHANIA

I can say before my every Cretan holiday I used to be usually looking forward to the next adventure for a long time before relevant departure but at this time it was rather different. As though I lost a mood…and I didn’t know why… Maybe also light health problems could contribute to it… Nevertheless, I set off with a solid itinerary what to do, where to go, which summits climb etc., and it was a question only if I keep it or not. It could be said, my intentions were, as usual, very ambitious: to reach all (two) remaining summits lofty over 2300m (Mesa Soros and Bournelos), climb again also the second highest peak – Trocharis (for the second time) and over two nearby tops (both summits of Thodori Korfí) and through a valley first between them and the peak of Xerolimni peak, and later between Xerolimni and the area of Chórafas Korfí to get on the Anopoli road and thus to approach civilization. It should take together 4 days from the starting point (Xyloskalo on the Omalos plain) as far as Sellouda which is just at the beginning of descent on the coastline. By other several days should be for my relax in Agia Roumeli and like a return trek I planned to repeat the trek from the Eligias gorge over the Kormokopou cave, the village of Agios Ioannis and Anopoli plain to Sfakia.

I started in Prague in the afternoon on Mon 14/09. Arrival in the Chania’s Airport (with a change in Athens) was on time, therefore I caught the last bus toward the city. As I intended to spend a night on the city beach (Neo Chório) and because it was short to the midnight, I hurried up to get there passing open supermarkets yet. Only one thing which I really needed to buy was a cartridge for my gas stove but it seemed me to be reasonable doing this shopping as far as in the morning because my bus should leave at 07:45 and I supposed shops could be open from half-past seven, at least.

When I got up on the beach in the morning Tue 15/09, I hurried toward the city to the bus station to catch the bus and along the way to buy the cartridge, however, as I could see, all shops which I passed were closed!! So, I had to set out without such an important need which seemed me to be a little bit critical as all my meals need hot water for their preparing (dried food) and especially in the high mountain there is a lack of proper firewood. The ascent along the renewed and also newly marked (as E4) footpath to the Kalerghi refuge took the time which was on a sign-post on Xyloskalo indicated (btw. at Xyloskalo, there is also an entrance into probably the most known site in Crete – the Samaria gorge). I didn’t stop in the refuge for a longer time and continued from its terrace down on the road again to follow the E4 route. The nice way along a dirt road as far as a saddle of Poria followed. The road goes on from this place for about a half of kilometre to ruins of a former picnic/lookout arbour where E4 branches up (while the road continues further slightly upward). This well-trodden path (E4) runs almost continually up in the range where it reaches almost 2000m. After traversing a slope under the summit of Melindanou (2133m) this footpath starts then descend and over several smaller or larger plains (called Lakkoi and Plakoseli) it gets to its lowest spot between plains of Pirou and Petradhé. I was going to get there, on the Petradhé for overnight but as I wasn’t fast enough I had to stop on the nearer plain – Plakoseli – for the night. During some time before I got here, I had picked up all small pieces of wood which I could find for eventual fire, therefore as soon as I pitched my tent tried to set a fire. However, wood was a little bit wet (in one moment even something like drizzling came), therefore I didn’t succeed. In addition to it, dark was coming and temperature declined (the altitude of about 1750m). I ate up pieces of cheese and meat sausage with dried bread, prepared nescafé using cold water (really excellent!!) and got in the tent to hit the rack.

Wed 16/09 Morning was excellent!! Clear sky, sun rays slowly approaching as far as the bottom of the plain…and I was successful with a setting of the fire!! (I had to use dried stems of some thistles). If I had hot water I poured it into one of a bag with “cryo-dried” meal but I tried - with regards to next days in which any firewood could be picked up – to prepare my oatmeal with cold water, and it was also rather edible. I ate only a half of the bag of meal and packed it for “later usage”. During perhaps 30mins I was on the lowest point of the route and started to ascend. Next part of E4 is beautiful, winding among many low spines and crests running down from both sides of the valley, and during about 2 hrs I came at the Katsiveli plain, the highest plain in Levka Ori on which some buildings are. Because it was the time when fruits of creeping bushes of wild cherry (Prunus prostrata) were getting ripe I tried to taste it. And found it to be really refreshing!! Partly bitter, partly slightly sour…. Indeed, the stone of this fruit is quite large and flesh small but some bushes were almost red by their fruits and if one picks up a sufficient amount of it….. So, I was on Katsiveli. I didn’t plan to stay here for a long time but because the water was pouring into one of the troughs, I decided not only take a supply of it but also to wash my body a little bit as it seemed it would need it. Thus, I spent there about half of the hour and set off again. Ascend toward a stone hut of EOS (Mountaineering club from Chania) took only several minutes and then tackled ascending to the summit of Svourichti (2356m). I had done it once before already, in 2013, therefore it wasn’t anything new for me. At an altitude of about 2100m (or even a little bit higher), I hit lastiko, a black pipe running from a shepherd’s mitato at Katsiveli to supply it with water. I was curious to know where the source, the spring is and followed the lastiko for certain distance but when the pipe run steeply down and headed for around the corner of rocks, I left it and went ongoing upward. The whole climbing as far as the summit takes not more than 2.5hrs. However, what was rather unpleasant it was a permanent cold wind from my left side, thus from roughly north. It dried my lips considerably up and because I didn’t have any cream for care on me, they burst and what was much worse (probably) an infection got in. For several days, I had something like an ugly pustule here which was, in addition, very painful when eating. (Even when I returned home, for almost two weeks later, some small scrab sit on my lip still.) Just beside the top cairn, I ate up rest of “morning” meal from the bag (fortunately, not very cool as it was just under the material of the backpack warming by the sun) and because it was clear I would not get as far as the saddle of Rousiés for spending next night, I tried to find and choose an appropriate place from high. Two places under the range southward behind which I hopefully expected the footpath between Katsiveli and Rousiés is running were well distinct. Both places were (or better – seemed to be) filled with ochre sand or gravel and looked like to be very flat but the larger one was under a quite high and steep flank and some big stones were lying on it which probably came loose from the flank. Therefore, I decided to head for the next, lesser one which was under the mild and lower slopes. Nevertheless, there was also climbing the nearby summit of Mesa Soros (2346m) in front of me and I had to do also a visual inspection of my next way here – which way to descend to the saddle between these peaks, at which spot to leave my backpack (to climb up light) and how to continue. The way down was easy and as well traversing the flank of Mesa Soros was the same. I leave my pack covered my water-proof cover (because it was of such a bright green colour easy to find it in rough stony terrain from distance) and during about 20mns I reached the top. Mesa Soros, as well as next two Soros (Grias and Askifiotiko), are a cone with the gradient of slopes of about 33°covered by scree but in places, some rock outcrops are here which make the ascent easier (scree is gliding). To get down to the backpack was much faster and I could continue toward my camp-site in advance chosen. When I came more closely it revealed the bottom is not so flat as it looked like, however, I succeeded to find a flatter spot for my tent, at the end. To pitch it, to prepare it for the night, to shift my clothing (and mainly my boots!!) – all these doings took me certain time and as soon as I ate some food, dark came (in September, days are short already). This place was in such a pothole in a wild area full of other potholes, swallow holes and wild rocks and I hoped to be protected from the wind enough but it turned here and sometimes hit my tent. However, as I was sufficiently tired and because the wind went away slowly during the night, I was sleeping well.

Next day Thu 17/09 I got up quite early because I knew the on-coming stage should be the longest. After breakfast, I packed all my things and during about 20 mins I was staying at a saddle of the range and quite deeply under my feet a path was outlined. This footpath was the one connecting Katsiveli and Rousiés to where I was heading for but I decided don’t lose high and rather contour the slope straight to the saddle. It was a good decision because I met another Cretan endemic – small spurge Euphorbia rechingeri. In the saddle which is usually a trailhead for climbing Páchnes (the highest summit of Levka Ori), a group of people was gathering but as they didn’t answer for my greeting, I estimated they could be Italians (Italians are very rare communicative in the mountain), and as it revealed my guess was right. I needed water, therefore I headed for the cistern (with good water year-round) but as soon as I open big lit on its opening (only a piece of rusty metal plate loaded by several stones not to be taken by the wind) I found the quality of water could be problematic because on the water level was floating a bird, a species of wheatear. And as it seemed it was bathing here for so long time it was absolutely dead. However, I needed water strongly, therefore I “fished out” the bird and filled by water all my bottles for long trail waiting for me. And as I didn’t have any possibility to boil this water (any cartridge for my gas stove, any firewood in the surrounding), I had to drink it later “raw”. Nevertheless, both my stomach and my whole body bore up against it and I didn’t have any problems. To continue, I ascended toward the summit of Páchnes but on the flat range under the final ascent, I left this way and descended the opposite slope, southward. This slope is covered by stones, almost like scree but it is possible to make easy this descent finding rock outcrops. On the flat bottom of the valley could be possible to overnight but I guess it would be very windy night. Next way wasn’t directly upward but I chose to ascend askew to the right because straight upward seemed me to be too steep. To get down from the spot under final ascent of Páchnes and on the top of a “fore-summit” of Trocharis (altitude of about 2200m) could take about 1 hour, maybe one and a half. Continuing was rather easy, with flat terrain covered by small stones and gravel underfoot and in the easy gradient downhill. Also, a short belt of rocks in the saddle between “fore-summit” and Trocharis can be crossing quite easy – to go, and in places, to jump on its tops. Heading for the higher saddle between Trocharis and nearby Thodori Korfí I found a proper spot of leaving my pack to climb up light (again, like in the case of Mesa Soros). For next about 15 – 20mins I was on the top where a rather large stone wall against prevailing west winds (about knee-deep high) is built. From this spot, one of the most excellent circular outlooks opens. I guess one could spend the night her during summer and in stable weather conditions. To return to my backpack down took only about 10 minutes and I could go on to reach nearby summits of Thodori Korfí. Again, it is better to ascend slightly askew, not straight upward. Thodori Korfí has two tops. The second one is (from the first one) at the distance of about 200m with a quite flat terrain underfoot, southwards. The view from this second summit is also excellent, one can overlook almost the whole plain of Anopoli, with all its hamlets and roads, with masts on its eastern side and with a huge and deep cutting of the Aradhéna gorge westward…. I rate this view as one of the most informative to size up the situation and geography of this part (the Anopoli plain). However, the day was declining and had to hurry up a little bit to get on the road before dark comes; in another case, if I didn’t manage to get there, I would have to survive sitting somewhere on the rock because on whole way in front of me there wasn’t any place for at least laying without the tent on an animal’s path. I was traversing roughly lower flanks of Xerolimni because to pass through the bottom of the valley isn’t possible due to many holes, rocky ridges and generally very wild terrain. To cross over several crests of lower rocks wasn’t a problem but when I got on the spot from which the area of Ammoutsera (through which the Anopoli road is running) was distinct deeply down, darkness almost came already. As I didn’t know the way down, around huge and deep pothole filled by wild black rocks, I decided to go along the way which I had gone in May 2014 already, thus which I knew much better To pass through it wasn’t very difficult but as it was almost dark (fortunately the moon started rising), it seemed to be rather dramatic and I had to be very careful (and thus, very slow) … Of course, I could use my “head-light” but its use is quite problematic because if you use it once, you have to use it forever from that moment. But I would like to avoid it so long how possible because alight objects are not plastic enough and plastic seeing was very important as the “way” ran over rough rocks, boulders, and across crevices. Finally, I got on the road all right even though it was deep dark. Next way about 2 or 3kms along the dirt road were comfortable in comparison with last several hours of descending, and I had to be careful only to find the right site when I should leave the road. This place is named Angathopei and the old connection between Anopoli and pastures in High Mountain starts here its descent. But it was for me also a very important spot from the next reason – I knew that there is a good place for pitching my tent. However, I couldn’t find the camp-site at first, due to low battery in my torch, thus low light from it which wasn’t enough for better orientation. But in the end, I found it, pitched the tent, prepared a meal and after 11hrs (!!) of hiking I could, finally (!!), get inside and fall asleep. I must say, I have never hiked for so long time in the Cretan mountains!!

The morning next day Fri 18/09 was such an award for the previous hard day. Sunny, almost windless, and a nice temperature – what one could wish more!! And in addition to it, I was aware of the fact I HADN’T to hurry!!! Only a few hours, and I’m in civilization in feature of beer and a good meal in the Anopoli tavern on the road-crossing... Because I didn’t hurry, I could do a pause beside the spring of Kriaras, the spot where ruins of a small stone house and a bit lower, as well as a well vaulted in an old style and several animal pens are. The water level in the well was really deep, I guess, it could be several meters. I took the full bucket (= metal canister with long rope lying just beside) to do some cleanup of my body – I am approaching civilization and my body without washing for two days of hard hiking could be a problem in the tavern. Next part of the descent through the ravine of Lagou was dull and boring. Probably as results of high snow in the winter season, many branches and even whole trees falling down blocked the way which got considerable slower my progress. Also, the part along a dirt road on the plain is boring, especially if it is full sun and high temperature. As it was. The distance is not very long I guess about 3kms but I came to the pub rather overheated. Beer and a very good meal (their Greek salad is very special because they use also leaves of lettuce and dill – in contrast to the ordinary salad which one can have everywhere) were very beneficial for me, the same like wifi connection which is disposal there. And one more thing I could do - to buy the cartridge for my gas-stove!!! Finally!!! After such a good meal and resting and doing good shopping I had enough time for walking slowly. To go toward nearby village of Agios Dimitrios, to walk along the old mule-track which is a shortcut over a hill, then short part along the bitumen road, across the bridge over the Aradhéna Gorge – these all stages took me less than 2hrs despite the fact I walk really very slow. I also did a stop in a refreshment kiosk on the opposite side of the bridge to buy a can of Fanta and next can of the beer. I drank up Fanta and wrap the beer in a wet towel for maintaining its low temperature as far as my next sleeping spot – Sellouda. Toward there it is about 4 or 5kms together, from the place of refreshment. One has to follow the main bitumen road (toward Agios Ioannis), then above several bends of the road take the first branch to the left (also a bitumen surface), on the first crossing (the road here is uncovered already) to the right, about 200m straight ahead and then bear to the left, pass a pine forest and in a short distance from the animal's shed (on the margin of the forest) there are on both sides of the road signposts of the marked footpath between Sellouda and the village of Agios Ioannis (red-white marks). To the left is the right direction and after about next 200-300m, one gets on the rim of the steep slope falling down on the coastline. It is an old kalderimi, the old connection between the coast and the plain upwards. However, there are also some cypress trees, to the right, and if one heads for them along the path, just behind the last one, an excellent site for overnight is here. The nice view, down on the shore, to the right to the Agia Roumeli bay and just father as far as Palaiochora running to the sea, aback summit of Zaranokefála and Volakias massif….what one could wish more!!!

Nor next day Sat 19/09 I hadn’t to hurry, my task for that day was to descend on the coastal branch of the E4 route which takes one hour and about 20 minutes as maximum, then 30 minutes above the tavern on the Agios Pavlos beach, 1hr and 15min to the mouth of the Eligias gorge and about 30mins as far as the informal campsite in Agia Roumeli. I decided, my first stop would be at the mouth of Eligias. And it was very nice!! I stayed there for more than an hour to enjoy the sun and bathing in the sea….for the first time after 4 days after my arrival!! Nevertheless, in the afternoon I set out to continue and after perhaps one hour (with next bathing stop) I came among pines of the campsite. Not too many people were here, so I could occupy my favourite spot. Surprising was a water stream in Samaria’s River which isn’t common in September. I arranged my camp-site according to my own, pitched the tent, dressed for visiting a pub and set off to the tavern to say hello to Andreas and his brother Sifis in Tarra restaurant, to do some small shopping, to have then some meal and beer… and what was the main – to rest on the shore.

According to my itinerary, I should stay here from Sun to Wed (20/09 – 23/09) and on Thu (24/09) early morning to go away and start my return trek. But things went in a different way. On Saturday and Sunday, the weather was excellent but for Monday Andreas told me it should come to some rains. And indeed, in Monday’s morning, darker clouds appeared on the sky, little bit stronger wind started blowing, and several drops fell down. So, I thought, THIS was THE rain according to the forecast but after 10 o’clock a.m. came really strong gusts of the wind which blow and hit my tent and suddenly also a heavy rain came. The rain didn’t last for a long time, perhaps for about half an hour. Water in the stream bed arose and got tarnish. I turned out from my tent and because the sun appeared, I hung some things to dry up as they were a little wet. But what came then, I have never met here. About less than one hour after the rain stopped, the next stage of the rain came but it wasn’t common heavy rain but almost a gale!! Strands of rain poured down, around my tent a pool appeared immediately (fortunately, didn’t enter inside) and hits of wind were so strong (despite the fact, the tent was partly protected by a lower wall made of stones), I had to keep it from inside and was afraid the tent wouldn’t be torn. Also, this phase didn’t last for a longer time, also maybe for half an hour but the results were horrible. I could hear some noise and thought primarily, it could be the heavy sea but as I'll learn later, it was a roar of the River!! Through the bed, some liquid was rolling down, and hard to call it water. It was of the colour of latté, brown with lighter foam and on the place on which this mass meets with the heavy sea almost columns of somewhat, which could be called water only when both eyes would be closed, was created… The power of nature could be so strong and dreadful!! Brown water created a large spot in seawater which was spreading more and more, the sky was cloudy although sometime sunrays appeared for a short time and ambient air was full of humidity. This flood damages also water pipes and hoses and neither on WC beside camp nor in taverns and restaurants water didn’t run from taps. Lammergeyers picked up something from the sea level, so I think the flood washed down also either some animals or birds. Also next day several drops fell down but quite warm temperatures survived. Unfortunately, the sea was still heavy and dirty, therefore any bathing or swimming wasn’t possible. I decided, for this reason, to omit the return trek to enjoy warm and sunny days because according to the forecast from Wednesday nice weather should come again. And indeed, Wednesday was sunny and I spent it beside the sea and the same on Thursday.

Also next day, Fri 25/09 I didn’t have to hurry and hiked along the coastal E4 route step by step toward Sfakia. I did the “bathing stop” in front of the Eligias gorge mouth again, then next one on the Agios Pavlos beach, and well refreshed set out on the (for me) not very favourite part between the margin of pine forest and Marmara, the mouth of the Aradhéna gorge. At Marmara, I came considerably dehydrated, therefore I drunk here several beers especially because I met a compatriot from Prague with whom we have much of talking. I went on almost in dark to the cap of Mournés (between Fínix and Loutro), to my favourite sote for overnight.

The nice morning (Sat 26/09) welcomed me on my last walking day in Crete (for this year). After an easygoing time, I went to a small concrete pier to bath and swim (any other access to the seawater isn’t there) and went on to Loutro then to do some small shopping. Next stop was in the bay after over one hour of walking where I spent more than 2hrs and only a result of strong sunshine which I could feel on my skin forced me to continue. The Glika Nero (= Sweet Water) beach is only a half an hour of walking from this bay and I did here also some bathing stop. The way up to the road was almost exhausting that time. I had to do more stops I shade. As soon as I was on the road, to walk down for not whole kilometre to the bridge and then up through the Ilingias gorge was easy. To my favourite site for overnight among several cypress trees perhaps 200 or 300 m from the road, I came early enough for calm doing all things – to improve this site (next big stones for the protected wall), to pitch the tent, to prepare the last dinner in outdoor, to take photos and also to sit in front of the tent a listen to all sounds, mainly of birds in incoming dark.

On Sunday’s morning (27/09) anything pushed me to rush, so I packed the tent and prepared my last outdoor breakfast – all in peace, and walked down to the road to get to Sfakia. My first steps here led to the beach – to swim for the last time and also to use a shower and put on new, clean clothing for a bus journey. I bought something for second breakfast but because dark clouds appeared above the sea and also from the mountains thunders can be heard several times in a distance, I went to the shelter at the bus stop, which showed to be the good decision because during the short time very heavy rain came. The bus was parking about 30meters from this shelter and in time of getting in the driver opened one door only and sitting inside let passengers to overcome these 30 meters of horrible rain, to load their luggage into the boot of the bus and then to board through the one door. Really very friendly approach to passengers!! When the bus came to Chania, I formerly planned to leave my luggage in the luggage room of the bus station, to walk around the city, to come round in a shop with gyros, to have frappé and to buy some gifts, and later in the afternoon to collect my pack and move to the beach for spending last night there. But the rain (high moisture on the sand of the beach) and unstable weather changed my plans and I went by an evening bus to the airport to spend last night here. Monday’s (28/09) journey home ran over OK (with not very nice waiting in Athens for next flight – about 5hrs).

 

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